Gardening: Decorative grasses in winter

Ornamental grasses are wonderful garden plants. They add foliage, colour, movement and height to the landscape. But when winter comes, what’s the best thing to do with them? There is no one answer that fits all gardens or all gardeners.

If you like a tidy garden, cut the grass to within a few inches of the ground after the grass has died. This practice also eliminates one task from the huge list of gardening chores.

Another option is to tie the grass into bundles. This controls some of the mess of free grass that can get pretty busted by the end of winter. It also has the benefit of allowing for a protective layer of vegetation over the crown and roots of the grasses. The seed heads mature and provide food for wildlife, and the tied bundles make spring trimming and cleaning easy.

The third option, leaving it alone, offers many of the same benefits as tying the tufts of grass together, but allows for free movement of the dried stems and a more natural shape. In spring, it gets messier to tidy up.

Your choice of method is purely a matter of taste and preference. I happily set the grass free and pay the price in the spring when we clean up the stray and broken stems.

There are a few things you don’t want to do:

Don’t cut the stems down to the ground. While this isn’t a problem most years, it does expose the crown and roots to the full brunt of winter weather.

Don’t wait too long to cut back in the spring. The new growth will appear quickly, and once you’ve abandoned the old stems it’s a hassle to cut around the new growth.

Don’t let the tufts of grass grow undivided for years. The plant will die back from the center outwards over the years, so it’s best to divide and replant every few years.

There are two ways to display poinsettias. First, they can make a beautiful seasonal addition to your home tossed with wreaths and trees at the end of the holidays. Or you can try to save them, grow them and get them blooming again next year.

I don’t have the space or patience to keep them, but some gardeners love a good challenge. If you’re trying to keep your poinsettia alive, keep it warm (60-70°F), out of drafts and watered enough to keep the soil moist, and in bright, indirect light. When the bracts (what we call a flower) fall off, cut the plants back to just below their original spot and continue growing as a houseplant.

In spring, after the weather has warmed up (nighttime temperatures regularly at or above 50°F). The poinsettias can be placed outdoors in a spot with bright, indirect light. The plants grow throughout the summer but are completely green.

Prune the plants back to a height of 15cm in early June and transplant into slightly larger pots. Feed your poinsettias regularly once a month, using a diluted liquid fertilizer. Pinch back an inch from each growing tip.

Bring the pots in at the end of summer, before night time temperatures reach 60°F. Then comes the difficult part. The plants need about 14 hours of total and uninterrupted darkness, day and night, with temperatures around 20°C. Give the plants bright, indirect light if they are not in total darkness. This lasts eight weeks. If you’ve been successful, the bracts should begin to show the traditional colors and the plants can be treated as regular, albeit temperature-sensitive, houseplants to enjoy for another holiday season.

Most rosemary plants bought in November and December died in February. While rosemary is almost hardy here, it does need shelter during the winter cold. So at the end of November we bring in local plants that we want to survive. Yes, there are a few rosemaries that are classified as zone 6 hardy, but they are not reliably hardy and will not survive an unusually cold winter.

Indoors, rosemary prefers bright light, cool temperatures, even but limited humidity, and good air circulation. The soil should be well drained, the pot needs good drainage and it should never be in excess water.

Keep the rosemary trimmed to avoid leggy growth and be sure to use the clippings to flavor your meals.

My personal mistake is that I created all the right conditions but forget to water and find a dried up stalk of a plant in February.

Sue Kittek is a freelance gardening columnist, author, and lecturer. Send questions to Garden Keeper at grdnkpr@gmail.com or by mail to: Garden Keeper, The Morning Call, PO Box 1260, Allentown, PA 18105.

Plants: Use cut greens and ropes, small evergreens and holly to brighten up the winter landscape. Pot any leftover spring bloomers and store in a cool spot with temperatures around 40°F or cooler for 8 to 12 weeks, then allow them to bud. Sow seeds that require a cold spell to germinate.

Seasonal: Check the water reservoir on your Christmas tree every day and fill it up if necessary.

Shop for gifts and gift cards for gardeners on your Christmas list. Secure all decorations so they don’t get damaged or blown away. Tie up ornamental grasses. If you’re buying a live potted or burlap Christmas tree, find a suitable planting spot, dig it up, and store the soil covered or in a container in the garage.

Lawn: Rake, blow or mulch leaves on the lawn. Matted leaves encourage mold problems and can prevent water from getting into the soil. Keep newly seeded or grassed lawns watered; Add rain in weeks where less than an inch. Fill in holes and low spots in the lawn.

Tasks: Bring easy-to-move pots and lawn decorations or wrap large statues to prevent winter damage. Store empty terracotta, clay, or plastic pots in a dry, sheltered place to prevent cracking. Stop pruning by late winter or very early spring. Mark beds, new plantings, plants that come out of dormancy late in spring and delicate plants. Stay away from them when decorating or dealing with snow removal. Apply winter mulch after the ground freezes.

Water new plantings whenever we experience a week with less than an inch of rain until the ground freezes. When the amaryllis bulbs sprout, water and move to a warmer place, then gradually to indirect light. Rotate them regularly to maintain strong straight stems. Stake the stems when they start to bend or bend. Top dressing with compost or manure now and until next spring. Water new plantings whenever we experience a week with less than an inch of rain until the ground freezes. Check the sealing around doors and windows. Fix now to keep mice, ladybugs and stink bugs away. Repair or replace damaged strainers and garden hoses.

Maintain deer, rabbit and marmot protection for endangered plants. Reapply taste or odor repellent. Clean and fill bird feeders regularly. Eliminate spilled seeds and empty hulls. Empty, scrub and fill the bird bath at least once a week. Use a small heater to keep the water liquid in cold weather.

Clean gutters and direct rainwater drainage away from house foundations.

Tools, Gear & Supplies: Clean and maintain summer/fall gear, then store or send for repairs.

Check winter equipment, repair or replace if necessary. Use fresh gas, check and/or replace oil and spark plugs.

Safety: Ensure that pets, children and other people are kept well away from the area where debris or snow is being cleared.

Store garden chemicals indoors away from pets and children. Dispose of obsolete ones at local chemical collection events. Photograph storm damage prior to clearance or repair for insurance claims and file it promptly. Any time you are outside and temperatures are around 50°F or warmer, be on the lookout for tick bites. Use an insect repellent containing Deet on the skin. Apply a permethrin product to clothing. When gardening, wear light-colored clothing, long sleeves, a hat, and long pants. drink enough Drink water or other decaf, non-alcoholic beverages. Even in cold weather, wear sunscreen, wear hats, and limit sun exposure. Wear closed shoes and gloves; use eye protection; and use hearing protection when using noisy power tools.