If you’re growing fig trees where temperatures drop below freezing for long periods of time, then an ounce of protection can be worth a pound (or more!) of figs.
Most mature fig trees are native to Mediterranean Europe, Asia and Africa and can tolerate temperatures of up to around 20 degrees. Some strains, like Celeste and Hardy Chicago, are even more cold hardy, but even they can succumb to deep freezes. Regardless of strain, all benefit from some protection.
Depending on the weather and your pruning practices, your fig could grow into a shrub or tree form. Shrubby plants with multiple stems growing from the ground are best wrapped up for the winter; Trees with a single trunk can either be wrapped or buried.
In any case, wait until the trees have shed most of their leaves, which indicates a dormant period (if there are a few leaves left, you can remove them by hand before proceeding).
A popular burial method is “the Minnesota tip”. It involves digging a trench that extends from the base of the tree, about a foot deep, 2 feet wide, and as long as the tree is tall.
To prepare the tree, gather its branches and tie them together with soft twine or rope.
Next, dip a shovel into the ground about 2 feet from the trunk on the opposite side of the trench. Lift this side of the root ball out of the ground.
Tilt the tree towards the ditch until it lies flat in the gully.
Cover the tree with a plastic tarp and tuck it inside. This will avoid damage in the spring when you dig it up.
Pack soil around the exposed, raised side of the roots, fill in the trench, and pile at least 1 foot of soil over the tree. You’ll need more soil than you removed from the trench, so be prepared.
If you’re wrapping the tree instead, you’ll need cardboard, a bucket, and a roll each of burlap, heavy brown paper, and tar paper.
If it’s less than 3 years old, prune the tree back by a third of its height, then pull the branches inward and tie them together with a soft but strong rope.
Wrap burlap in burlap from the bottom up, securing it to itself with pins or staples. Then wrap heavy brown paper around the burlap and tie in place.
Remove some soil from the base of the tree, place a large sheet of cardboard in the small ditch you created and bend it around the bottom 1/3 to 1/2 of the tree. Tie up the cardboard.
Do not give up; you are almost done Keep an eye on the juicy figs you’ll be enjoying next summer.
Next, wrap tar paper around the tree and angle it outwards from top to bottom so that it forms a pyramid shape. This directs the rain away from the tree.
Finally, pour soil around the base of the tree and place a bucket upside down over the top of your new garden sculpture to drain rainwater.
On a cloudy day in spring, unwrap the tree just after the last frost.
If your friend or neighbor got away with not protecting their fig tree, you might be tempted to throw caution to the wind.
I, too, have heard from several growers on the verge of zones 6-7 reporting success growing figs without winter protection, and they are indeed lucky.
Sometimes a garden’s specific microclimate, exposure to sunlight, or positioning the tree against a protective barrier like a wall can help it weather harsh weather. Although exceptions like these do exist, conditions can vary significantly from garden to garden and even between different areas within the same garden.
To find out if you are one of the lucky few, you would have to take an unnecessary risk.
