Gardening: By standard demand, right here’s easy methods to develop garlic | Residence and Outside Dwelling

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Gardening: By popular demand, here’s how to grow garlic | Home and Outdoor Living

I was surprised to learn recently that according to Google Trends data collected by AllAboutGardening.com, the most popular fall crop in the United States is…garlic.

My guess would have been kale. Possibly turnips. Maybe brussel sprouts. But garlic?

Inspired by this, I did a deep dive into Google search trends myself and compared Americans’ interest in growing garlic to interest in growing other fall-planted bulbs such as tulips, daffodils, hyacinths and crocuses. Surely colorful blooms would trump the spicy, pungent veggies.

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no When people used the search term “how to grow…” garlic was again the front runner compared to these scallion plants. I was so stunned that I used the word “stunned” for the first time in my life.

Could it be that Americans have a previously unknown obsession with garlic? Or are we collectively at a loss as to how to grow it? I love garlic as much as the next girl, but I suspect it’s the latter, which would explain all the “how” questions.

However, growing garlic is just as easy as growing daffodils. There are just a few things you should know before planting it:

There are two types of garlic – hardnecks and softnecks. Plant the variety that is best suited to your climate.

Hardneck varieties are recommended for northern regions where they should be planted 6-8 weeks before a severe frost. Their heads consist of a single row of large cloves formed around an underground stem. They’re tastier than softnecks, but don’t last as long.

Softneck strains are better suited to growing in warmer climates, and their heads contain multiple stacked rows of smaller cloves. Due to their longer shelf life, softnecks are typically sold in supermarkets.

Garlic plants are heavy feeders, so mix a generous amount of compost into the top 3-4 inches of soil to increase their fertility. Add a serving of mycorrhizal fungus to encourage tuber formation.

Only plant seed garlic purchased from a reputable supplier—or cloves from the biggest, healthiest heads salvaged from last year’s harvest.

Supermarket garlic should not be planted as it is often treated with growth inhibitors to prevent sprouting in the store and in your fridge. It also may not be the type that is best suited to your growing conditions.

Separate the head into individual cloves without removing their papery skin. With the pointed end, plant the cloves about 2 inches deep and 6 inches apart in rows 12 inches apart.

Cover with soil, press down and water well.

In regions where winter temperatures drop below 40 degrees, mulch the bed heavily with seedless straw. Avoid using hay that contains grass or grain seeds and will likely turn your bed into a weedy mess. Pour the straw to set it in place.

It is normal for plants to sprout in the fall and early winter, even in northern climates; let her be.

Remove the mulch in spring, after all danger of frost has passed, and sprinkle a row of pelleted fertilizer or blood meal along each row, a few inches from the stems. Keep the bed free of weeds, which can crowd out your plants for soil nutrients.

Hardneck strains will put out tall, leafless stalks called scapes in late spring. Remove them so the plant can focus its energy on tuber formation underground. Slightly garlic-flavored, scapes are a seasonal delicacy that can be added to salads, cooked in soups, or sautéed with other vegetables.

Softneck garlic varieties do not produce scapes.

Your garlic will be ready to harvest in mid to late summer, when at least 50 percent of the plant has turned yellow. Rather than pulling out the bulbs, which could damage them, carefully dig them up and brush off the soil, but don’t rinse them.

Place hardneck strains with their stems on a drying rack or screen, then place in a well-ventilated, cool, dry place for two weeks. Stems of softneck varieties can be braided and hung to dry. The papery skin of cured garlic helps extend its shelf life.

Store onions in a cool, dry place. Hardnecks stay fresh for at least 3-6 months; Softnecks last up to 9 months.

Jessica Damiano is a regular gardening columnist for The Associated Press. Her garden calendar was recognized as a winner at the 2021 Garden Communicators International Media Awards. Their Weekly Dirt Newsletter won two PCLI 2021 Media Awards from the Society of Professional Journalists. Sign up here for weekly gardening tips and advice.